When the Salty Air Beckons
While forests and rivers get much of the credit for Douglas County’s reputation as a scenic and recreational paradise, the county’s coastline is equally impressive and entertaining.
Story by Jennifer Grafiada
The aftertaste of clam chowder, the salttwisted hair, the volatile, undulating Pacific Ocean.
We endlessly seek the sea, if only to take in a breath of its air. Inclement weather may threaten — and most often does — but we still can’t help ourselves.
Douglas County’s scenery is nonstop eye candy, whether passing through on Interstate 5 or heading east along Highway 138-E as it follows the North Umpqua River past dozens of waterfalls to Diamond Lake and Mount Thielsen. (How could 5,000 square miles of land have gotten so lucky?)
But there is even more to be found to the west, on the county’s little slice of the Oregon coast. Creamy scalloped sand dunes are framed by glossy evergreen foliage. White herons and children’s kites swoop this way and that above the boundless white-flecked gray-blue. Pines sway around perfectly quiet freshwater lakes.
Now this is a place you could go back to over and over again. Its solace is only about 90 minutes away from the city proper, an easy day trip or weekend getaway.
The drive alone is worth it. Highway 138-W heads out of Sutherlin, hugging mountains and the Umpqua River as it races with you to the sea. On your way, make a stop at the Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area to watch these stately animals peacefully sample the grass in their natural habitat.
In Reedsport, the Umpqua Discovery Center features interactive exhibits showcasing the cultural history of the native local tribes, as well as early explorers, pioneers and cannery workers of this colorful tidewater town.
Something sweet or savory at Leona’s Sugar Shack Bakery will keep your spirits up as you head south on U.S. 101 and arrive at Winchester Bay.
Here is your destination for world-class crabbing, along with copious amounts of fish (salmon, lingcod, shad, striped bass, rockfish, perch, halibut, sturgeon), clams and oysters. If you don’t have a boat, or a friend who owns one, Winchester Bay Charters can hook you up. Crabbing is a popular attraction here, and you can catch plenty of the Dungeness variety right off the dock. Salmon Harbor Tackle & Marine has what you need: the $9 shellfish license for Oregon residents ($26 for non-residents) will cover a daily limit of Dungeness crab, as well as other types of clams and shrimp (call the shellfish hotline for up-to-date information at 1-800-448-2474.
Traps can be rented, and bait shops have the fish heads, sand shrimp and chicken meat used as lures. The best time for crabbing is generally a couple of hours before and after high tide, when the currents are weakest.
Photo by Robin Loznak
People will often put the traps down early in the morning, then return later in the afternoon to check out the haul. Make sure you know the rules and regulations on size and limits. Regulars along the dock are usually happy to share their tips and tricks, and it is considered a relaxing, social activity that can include picnics and wine.
If oysters are your thing, Umpqua Aquaculture grows Umpqua Triangle Oysters, renowned for their sweet, clean taste, in the triangular breakwater of the Umpqua River and the Pacific Ocean.
Take a dozen of these home to share with friends and you’ll have them thinking you’re a Michelin star chef in the making.
If you prefer to get your oysters on the run, Double D’s on the Rocks serves up a delicious Umpqua Triangle Oysters Rockefeller in a come-as-you-are atmosphere.
“Crabbing is a popular attraction here, and you can catch plenty of the Dungeness variety right off the dock.”
If you are done fishing or waiting to pull up your pots, head up the hill to the Umpqua River Lighthouse, built in 1892. Whether or not you make it to the top of the 65-foot lighthouse, you can marvel at the view from various vantage points on the bluff.
Watch the incoming boats gliding in the surf and the ATVs tracing lines in the sand below. Break out the binoculars for seasonal whale watching. A gray whale migration happens every year in December and January as they head south to Mexico to their breeding grounds, and then again around March and April as they head back north to feed in Alaska.
A small pod lives year-round nearby, so it is always possible to spot one. Right around the corner you will find Lake Maria, a sparsely populated spot to hike, fish and picnic (but note that black bears are around).
Back down the mountain, head to Ziolkouski Beach Park to walk in the sand and hunt for shells and driftwood. By this time, you may be feeling the quintessential coastal chill, but don’t leave the Bay without a stop at BJ’s Old-Fashioned Ice Cream (it’s open late).
For dinner, Harbor Light Family Restaurant is a favorite for clam chowder and coastal comfort food. If you are spending the night or weekend, Half Moon Bay Campground is a popular spot for RV camping, and there are several tent campgrounds, cabins, yurts and motels around.
There is plenty more to do in Douglas County’s coastal region. Hike, horseback ride or ride ATVs through miles of sand dunes; drop a line for a day in a freshwater lake or go into town for unique gifts at places such as the Myrtlewood Gallery and Ellie’s Chainsaw Carving Gallery.
If you don’t check everything off your list, don’t worry. You’ll be back.
